I gotta say, its very straightforward and effective.
I found nothing but great reviews about DD's waterblocks, so I got this one to OC my new i7 920. Right now I have it cooled using a fountain pump, this block and a 5gallon plastic bucket for a reservoir(passive cooloff till I get a radiator). ;) My temps are +10c ambiant, +20c loaded @ 3.8 after 1 hour duration, no radiator! Its rare to get more then your money's worth, but this block is it. Back plate is a nice addition(comes with foam gasket too), but the brass is a must. Enjoy!
Remove the three screws from the top cover (stamped Danger Den) Once that cover is off you will see the PCB.
On the back remove the rubber wire strain protection grommet from the
reservoir body. It slides out from the reservoir body and once out has a
slit in it so you can pull it off the wire.
Use a Molex pin removal tool to remove the pins from the plug. If you
don't have a Molex pin removal tool handy you CAN use a needle to
depress the little "wings" on either side of each pin, but this method
can be a PITA so be patient.
Once you have the pins removed from the plug use a needle or a thin
blade to pop the PCB out of it's bay. You can also peel back a corner
of the tape insulation on the back of the PCB and use it as a tab to
pull the PCB loose. Slide the power wire out and put the PCB into the
anti static bag that your new LED PCB came in for safe storage.
To install the new color board slide the molex pins through the pass
through hole, push the wire down into the groove, push (but don't force)
the PCB into place. If it does not pop into place easily you likely
have the power wire out of the groove, or if you still have the face
plate and button push rods installed your not clearing the push rods,
tilt the reservoir forward so the rods slide to their forward most
position.
Replace the rubber grommet, a slight twisting motion at the end makes it
seat. Replace the cover and the three screws that hold it in place
being careful not to over tighten them.
Install the red pin into slot 4 as marked on the supplied plug body, and
the black wire into slot 3. If you haven't messed with Molex plugs
before, a little tip on inserting the pins: Slide them in as far as
they will go without bending the wire, then use needle nose pliers from
the other side to GENTLY pull the pin till it "clicks". Obviously don't
crush the pin with the pliers =)
Plug the unit into your PSU to confirm its good to go before reinstalling the reservoir.
That's it. No soldering iron required =)
Also, in case you end up with several boards at some point, they are
color coded so you can tell them apart. The shrink on the board end of
the power wire and the insulation tape on the back both indicate the LED
color. Purple is UV, blue is blue etc.
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